How to Hem Pants
A good hem starts with the right finished length and a method suited to the fabric and construction. Use this guide as a careful starting point—not a claim that every pair of pants is built the same way.
Personalize the Guide Join the Worker NetworkWhat you’ll need
Gather the pants, shoes you plan to wear, pins or clips, measuring tape or hem gauge, an iron, a marking tool suited to the fabric, scissors, and either a sewing machine or hand-sewing needle and thread. A seam ripper may be needed for the existing hem.
1. Decide the finished length
Choose how the pants should meet the shoe. No break stays clean above or at the shoe, a slight break creates one small fold, a medium break creates a clearer fold, and a full break leaves more fabric at the ankle.
2. Wear the right shoes
Sole height, heel height, and the shape of the upper change how pants rest. Pin the pants with the footwear—or a very similar pair—you expect to wear.
3. Fold and pin
Stand naturally. Fold the extra length inward and place pins so the desired visible edge stays level. Use a mirror or helper to check the back, then walk and sit before finalizing the length.
4. Measure both legs
Compare floor clearance and the distance from the existing hem or another stable reference point. Bodies and garments are not always perfectly symmetrical, so inspect both legs while worn.
5. Prepare the hem
Turn the pants inside out, document the original finish, and determine the allowance needed for your chosen method before cutting. Press the fold with heat appropriate for the fabric and protect delicate surfaces with a pressing cloth.
6. Sew with the garment in mind
Choose a needle, thread, stitch, and finish suited to the fabric. Keep the allowance even and avoid stretching the leg opening. Jeans, lined trousers, cuffs, stretch fabric, and blind hems may need different methods.
7. Press and inspect
Press without scorching or shining the fabric. Check the hem from inside and outside for skipped stitches, puckering, visible thread, twisting, uneven length, and loose ends. Try the pants on again with the shoes.
Interactive guide
Match the method to your pants.
Your recommendations will appear here.
Choose the garment, equipment, and break you want. The full guide above still applies; these notes highlight the decisions most relevant to your setup.
Frequently asked questions
How much fabric should I leave for a hem?
The allowance depends on the fabric, original construction, finish, and whether you need a single fold, double fold, blind hem, cuff, or other method. Decide the construction before cutting.
Should I wash pants before hemming?
If the garment is washable and may shrink, laundering it according to the care label before measuring can reduce later length change.
Can I hem every pair with a regular machine?
No. Very heavy denim, delicate fabric, stretch materials, cuffs, linings, and some finishes may require different needles, feet, techniques, or professional equipment.